Monticello, and the Feral Cat

You should know that we haven't had much of a plan during any part of this trip. We try the night before to figure out go, both scenically and gastronomically. Sometime it's worked, but most of the time, I've just been busy blogging and playing with the cats and my brother's been watching American Idol and Dancing With the Stars. So then we get up in the morning, and just climb into the car. Between a $12 atlas bought in a Jersey rest stop and my 9 Southern food books, we figure it out.

So you can imagine that when both my dad and my brother's niece mentioned Monticello, Thomas Jefferson's estate, in separate conversations, we felt it was destiny. We'd previously planned to drive out to the Cape Hatteras, check out Kitty Hawk, do the nature/birthplace of flight thing, but the numbers didn't work out. We needed to go north and east at the same time, not north and then east. So it was off to Charlottesville, VA (no relation to Charlotte, NC - except in this blog). Halfway through the five-hour trip, we pulled off to grab some 'cue at a roadside general store. Turns out that the pulled pork was cooked by a local woman, who drops it off in the morning in a crock pot. We got the last delicious sandwich. I have to point out that I (inadvertently) made a 'Dukes of Hazzard'-style exit. This involved a gravel parking lot, a local gentleman in a soiled wife-beater and my hitting the gas way too hard to get back on the highway. Far as we could tell, the gentleman and the windows on the general store were still intact. The feral cat outside the store too.

Monticello (the latter half of the name sounds like the musical instrument - a topic of much discussion during the ride there) is the home of our third President. Our 35th, President Kennedy, famously said at a dinner for Nobel Prize winner in 1962, that '...probably the greatest concentration of talent and genius in this house except for perhaps those times when Thomas Jefferson ate alone.' Good stuff.

There's just way too much to talk about with regards to T.J., so I won't attempt to. Suffice as to say that Ivan and I chose the plantation tour over the garden tour because it's hard to reckon the fact that the man who wrote the Declaration of Independence was the same man who owned over two hundred slaves at one point in his life. Our guide provided us with a realistic depiction of slave life, as well as the economics of slavery. It was a stark contrast with the brilliant man who designed his own home and essentially worshiped intelligence and wisdom. We all need to talk more about this, despite its being such a difficult topic to discuss. Please make it a point to visit this national landmark (click here for Monticello's official site).


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Tippecanoe and Bar-B-Q (day 5)

Well - after that rather obvious sop to baser instinct in my previous post (pardon the double entendre), we're back to the history portion of the trip. My brother and I chose to actually go in to Charlotte to check out the city and found it really beautiful. Called 'The Queen City' after Queen Charlotte of Mecklenburg who became the consort of King George III (remember him? think ass-whooping, Concord, Lexington, Mel Gibson in 'The Patriot'), it's one of many rocking towns in NC.

There's a great museum in the middle of the downtown area called the Levine Museum of the New South. By 'New South', they're referring to post-Civil War. There current exhibit on the history of Charlotte is riveting (no, really). It's a microcosm of the South and all of America really, especially in terms of the history of poverty, racial politics, resurrection, achievement, religion and resilience. We can only be ennobled and emboldened by learning our history and this museum does a wonderful job of taking us there.

After that, we headed to the President James K. Polk State Historic Site in Pineville (just south of Charlotte). Now this blog has established that I'm a history buff (freak?), but my knowledge of President Polk, is up there with Millard Fillmore and Martin Van Buren. Which is to say, not that much. However, now I'm all up on our 11th president. Did you know he started the Mexican-American War? And that he was known as 'Young Hickory' because of his association with mentor, Andrew Jackson ('Old Hickory'). What really makes this all fascinating is to see how people lived. They actually 'made' things. It's not that I'm not proud of what I do or what my friends and family does, but which one of us really 'makes' something? Something that, if we didn't make it, might endanger our very survival. OK - too deep maybe.

Here's something interesting from Wikipedia. It says, 'scholars have ranked him 8th to 12th on the list of greatest presidents for his ability to set an agenda and achieve all of it'. What?!

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You Asked For It - Food Porn

Note: children and vegetarians should be asked to leave the room

There has been some comments that there should be more 'food porn' on this site. I think that I've struck a near-perfect balance with the combination of historical adventures, road trip hilarity and food photography. However, I realize that a great communicator needs to react to his or her audience within reason. Believe me, if I could get a picture of James K. Polk eating pork at a truck stop, I'd put it up in a second to hit all the demographics. In lieu of that, here are the money shots. Enjoy!


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Considering Name Change to Bubba (day 5)

No - I'm not drunk. I'm just really pleased to have yet another great BBQ experience. Turns out that the owner of Bubba's Barbecue in Charlotte, NC is actually named Bubba. A man as funny as his food is spectacular. My brother had the ribs and chicken and I had the ribs and pulled pork. I have to admit that I was sold on going to this place because they actually had ribs on the menu. After five days straight, I wanted a little more than just the pulled/chopped/minced pork. That said, the pulled pork was at the top of all the 'cue I had this trip.

Bubba was then graciously enough to show us the kitchen and 'cue accoutrement. He got into the business almost two decades ago and really has the business, as well as the artistry of barbecue, down pat. It was a great last Carolina stop.

He's got a wicked sense of humor, which is the only dry item he serves. Witness the rather intimidating set up he has in the men's room. All I can say is that we all need aspirations.

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John T. Edge

In the adjacent post, I mention the Southern Foodways Alliance. I've also mentioned the bookmobile I've put together to facilitate this road trip. In addition to the books specific to North Carolina and specific to barbecue (and those specific to both), there's a great book out there that gives a broader, more cultural outlook to this amazing thing called Southern food. It's Southern Belly, by John T. Edge (click for his website). The Miami Herald called him 'the Faulkner of Southern Food'. I don't quite see it, as I can pronounce most of the geographical areas that he writes about. However, it's quite possible they meant it in a more literary sense, at which point I'd agree. In addition to his books and magazine contributions, he's the director of the Alliance. I've also had the pleasure of making his aquaintance and getting a picture with him at last year's Big Apple Barbecue Block Party in NYC (yeah - you read right...kick-ass 'cue in Gotham).

This photo is bittersweet for me. The great part is that I'm getting a picture with Mr. Edge, who looks like he might have found something I said funny (or my facial hair). The bitter part is that I lost that great Yankee hat soon thereafter. There's been no evidence that JTE had anything to do with that.

click here to buy Southern Belly on Amazon

click here to buy Southern Belly on BN.com

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Blogger = Sexy (day 4)

I know there there's a perception that bloggers are totally hot people who choose to sit in front of a computer to share their B.S. with the world. Hate to say it, but it's true. This is me in action. The cat is Shoshanna, the shirt is Porkway and, if your look hard, there's a Southern Foodways Alliance sticker on the cover of the laptop. Here's your pin-up, ladies.

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Great! Old Salem (day 4)

I've never been so happy to show up somewhere as it was closing. After the Transportation Museum, Ivan and I hightailed it to Old Salem. This is a National Historic Landmark which essentially restores and cultivates the community that was settled in 1766 by the Moravians. Who were they, you ask? A Protestant sect that came into being in 1457 in the now-Czech region of Bohemia and Moravia (click here for Wikipedia entry), they came down from Pennsylvania to create a village based, not on farming, but skilled trade. You can see that as you walk (or drive) through the streets. There's a tavern, an apothecary, a hat store and - the bakery.

Now I had read that the bakery was the place to be. Since almost all of Old Salem closed at 4:30pm and we made it to the Visitor's Center at 4:26pm (whew - thought we'd miss something), we couldn't get to go into the village stores and homes. However, in a brilliant move only the Moravians and their descendants could think of, the bakery was open until 5pm.

Here's one of the many great and funny things to happen here. We park in the street in front of the bakery. Now you gotta imagine that this is a little weird to us. We're surrounded by late 18th century and 19th century architecture and I'm pulling up in my 2009 Corolla (great on this road trip, by the way). We got out and looked around and Ivan says, 'are we allowed to park here?!'. Now you remember that I said that this trip has been all about meeting great and interesting people. Enter Vince. He's unloading a truck that's parked in front of us and hears my brother's comment. He says (I'm paraphrasing now), 'yeah - you're good; I saw the Jersey plates and realized only people from Jersey are that worried about where they're parking'. HILARIOUS and so true. If we find parking out front of anything, that's about as sure a tow as if we wrote, 'COPS SUCK' all over the rear window.

We went in to this amazing building, which actually bakes what they sell (and the Arts Horizons people will get a little taste of that when I get back). There were some samples of 'sugar bread', which I like to call 'Living in Heaven with Type II'. Fantastic. Over at the gift shop, we start chatting with Vince some more and it turns out that he's a NYC transplant from 22 years ago. Still has family up by me, but lives down here with his wife who's from the area. Couldn't ask for a nicer guy. He even facilitated an introduction with three of the loveliest ladies to work in a Moravian village (and that includes back then too, I'm sure). There were Frances and Amanda, or as Vince called them, the Moravian sisters. And next door at the hat store was Stacy. As Bridget's pointed our already, taking pictures with the great people I meet has been one of the highlights, so here are. WOW. I just realized now that I didn't get a photo with Vince. I'm a little disappointed at myself for that. However, this is an excellent opportunity to show off some of his talent. Vince told us, with a bit of a wink, that he knew the artist who did the great artwork on the Moravian cookie tins (click to order Moravian cookies). Lo and behold, the side of the tins indicate that they were 'illustrated for OLD SALEM by Vincent Cannino'. Even more interesting is that he won a Gold Addy for these illustrations. And to top it off, animal lovers like me and other will be really happy to see that he's put his talent to great use. Here's another sample of his work, which was done for the Forsyth Humane Society's Artists Unleashed exhibition. Talk about the great people you meet!

REMEMBER TO CLICK ON THE PHOTOS TO SEE THEM BIGGER!


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Historic Salisbury and the NC Transportation Museum (day 4)

Started with another overcast day, headed north to Old Salem, located within Winston-Salem. More on that later, as I-85 was so clogged up halfway there, we made a u-turn and headed south to Salisbury. It's a cute little town, with a cute main street. We learned that there in the neighboring town of Spencer was located the North Carolina Transportation Museum. Earlier that morning (on the way to Old Salem) Ivan and I joked that it was probably going to be a couple of buses, but it was more denial than anything else. As stated before, my brother and I are total geeks and when we found out there there was an old steam locomotive roundhouse amidst the museum, we hightailed it there.

To picture the roundhouse, imagine a huge shed with a half-circle cut out of one side. In the middle of that half-circle is a huge turntable, with 37 tracks leading into 37 different sheds. It's absolutely amazing. Turns out that Southern Railway (motto - Southern Railway Serves the South, click here for logo) established this repair/roundhouse exactly halfway between Washington, D.C. and Atlanta. Spencer was the last name of the first president of Southern Railway and this whole town was built around this industry. Long story short, diesel engines killed the roundhouse, but it lives on with this museum and the fabulous employees and volunteers that work within it, including Tip (see photo).

More Lexington BBQ (day 3)

I'm going to post a link to YouTube here tomorrow. It's a short video during which one of the pitmasters at Lexington Barbecue (Honeymonk's to the cognoscenti) opens the doors to one of the more beautiful culinary sights I've been lucky enough to see.

After Monk's, we headed to The BBQ Center. They're known for their excellent 'cue and some slamming desserts. Since we'd just come from a huge lunch, I settled for the nut sundae and Ivan went for a banana milkshake. However, I did go in and grab a couple of pork sandwiches to go. Freaking great - 'nuff said.

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If I'm Dreaming, Don't Wake Me Up, or Honeymonk's (day 3)

Just about everyone I've told that I was in N.C. for a BBQ trip asked me if I'd been to Lexington. When I say yes, the next question is whether I'd gone to Lexington Barbecue. Also known as Lexington Barbecue #1 and, even more 'in-the-know', Honeymonk's or Monk's, this is considered by some to be the epicenter of barbecue. While this may be exaggeration, I'm not sure I'd disagree. The combination of great pork, a super-friendly staff and the glow (not kidding) that comes, not from the four pits in the back, but the incredible reputation, is enough to sway me in that direction. We were honored to have been served by Nathan Monk, grandson of Wayne Monk, the ginger-haired original owner (hence - 'Honey' Monk). He was kind enough to take us into the back to show us the pits.

Normally, I'd just put one or two photos here, but it was hard to choose this time, so I've put in a few. Remember, if you click on the photos, you'll see a bigger version. Then you can just hit the 'back' button to get back to the blog. The captions, going clockwise from the bottom, are 1. Ivan and a 'Chopped Platter' 2. Working For His Supper 3. Alan and the Firebox 4. A Pig in Poop!

North Carolina Aviation Museum (day 3)

Started out this morning without too much of a plan at all. At looking at one of our 38 maps/atlases, we saw that the North Carolina Aviation Museum was about an hour away, in the town of Asheboro (not to be confused with Asheville). First off, I don't necessarily judge a museum by its gift shop, but a good one goes a long way with me and this place qualifies. The exhibits, located in a hanger close to the tarmac, were fantastic. My brother is a huge plane freak and some of it has rubbed off on me. Part of what made this place amazing was the history of the area and it's contribution to WWII.

As I've noted before, it's the people I'm meeting that is making this road trip exciting. Today, I made the acquaintance of Roger Hicks. He'd seen a Purple Heart sticker on a car in the parking lot and sounded excited at the prospect that it was one of us. Despite the fact that the closest either of got to one of those military decoration was possible carpal-tunnel due to too much PlayStation, Roger was really friendly and hospitable. Like other folks, he was very interested in the Porkway and the road trip and was forthcoming with his 'cue opinions. Add another great person to the growing list of folks I've met lately.


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More VA 'Cue - S&S Barbecue (day 2)

After Richmond, we jumped on I-85S, heading southwest towards North Carolina. At a gas fill-up, we asked the attendant for a good BBQ joint. He steered up to S&S Barbecue, in South Hill, VA. Our server was Kristy (see photo) and it was a nice stopover. The barbecue was great and Kristy was very sweet.



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No Appomattox For Us (Day 2)

We woke up this morning to some severe rain. Decided that Appomattox Court House, which was out of the way to N.C. and more of an outdoor activity, wasn't in the cards. It was too bad, as today was Palm Sunday, and Gen. Robert E. Lee surrendered 143 Palm Sundays ago (1865).

Drove down to Richmond and visited The American Civil War Center at Historic Tredegar, a must see in my opinion. Based on the old Tredegar Iron Works, it's now a National Historic Landmark site. There's an incredible history to Richmond, including and especially it's surrender to Union forces in April 1865. Soon thereafter, Abraham Lincoln toured the city, including the 'White House of the Confederacy', with his son Tad. Robert E. Lee surrendered at Appomattox Court House a week later.


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The Smokey Pig - Ashland, VA (day 1)

We asked the front desk clerk at the Econolodge (a Mr. Patel) about barbecue in the area. He said (pointing west), 'many people said that there are good places down that way'. Works for me. We drove and drove and almost gave up. Thank God we didn't because we kicked off this North Carolina BBQ road trip with absolutely amazing Virginia BBQ. The Smokey Pig, in Ashland, VA, was a fantastic first spot and our server, the wonderful Denise, was even a Jersey transplant. The sauce was slightly biting and vinegary, a great compliment to the tender barbecue (I always order a combo plate, as I obsess over the road not traveled, re: 'why didn't I get the chopped pork?!'). To top off the visit, I took a picture with the owner, (another) Denise. A beautiful woman, right? Must be something in the sauce...

Porkway Mobile, now mobile (day 1)

I've set up my Crackberry and Blogger to be able to post from the phone. Henceforth, these postings will be signed off as Porkway Mobile. Oh - this is my awesome brother, Ivan. - Porkway Mobile
Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile


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first day on the road trip (day 1)

My brother, Ivan, and I had no clue what we wanted to do and see on this first day. The only thing we could agree on was that we were NOT going to drive all the way to Charlotte, NC. We both are tired from our work week and didn't want to rush around. Also, pretty much in agreement that it was I-95 until past Washington, D.C.. Then we stopped at 3 different tourism centers to take almost every brochure offered to us.

We decided to bypass many Civil War sites (Manassas, Antietam, Fredericksberg) to focus on getting an Econolodge just north of Richmond. The capital of the Confederacy, Richmond is a little more than halfway to our destination. If we stick to the plan, we'll get up and, after breakfast at Aunt Sarah's Pancake House, head west to Appomattox Court House, where Robert E. Lee surrendered to Ulysses S. Grant. After geeking out there for a while, it's further south for us, via the Blue Ridge Parkway.

McLean house, April 1865.

Photographed by Timothy H. O'Sullivan.



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the bookmobile, part 1

I've had a few suggestions from people who lived or went to college in North Carolina. I got great advice from the other Porkway founder, my buddy Ian. He made a road trip through the state a few years ago and has offered some tips.

However, if you want something more codified, you can't go wrong with Bob Garner. He's a genuine Tar Heel with many 'cue books. This is the one I'm taking along with me.

buy from Barnes & Noble

buy from Amazon



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hellhounds on the bbq trail...

This is a fairly accurate geopolitical representation of New Jersey. I'm located in a particularly dense, yet beautiful part of this state, around about the dot labeled 'Hackensack'.

To those who just laughed at the thought of Bergen County being described as beautiful, just think of the last sunrise over New York City you saw. Or maybe a sunset over the Meadowlands. Take a hike up and down the Palisades or grab a burger at White Manna (see aforementioned 'Hackensack'). Technically, the last thing isn't 'beautiful', but it's really freaking delicious.

There's a lot in New Jersey, including great barbecue - in our state and local competitions, some restaurants and, most definitely, in many of our backyards. However, we don't have a barbecue tradition. This doesn't mean we don't know how to smoke meat. We've just never had to.

Hopefully, there'll be a lot of big and small 'cue joints along the way, lots of scenic vistas and history to take in by the bucketful. I hope you'll follow me and my brother Ivan on this journey.



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